DTS presumably works in the same way, though the company ignored my repeated requests for info. Cheap or expensive, the cable is irrelevant when it comes to transmitting Dolby or DTS. If the cable is faulty or if there is some cataclysm causing data to be lost between the player and the receiver, the decoders are designed to mute instead of blasting out compromised data. There is no such thing as an audio version of "sparkles.
So if you're getting audio dropouts, it's possible it's the HDMI cable. But if you're not getting video issues as well, the problem is likely elsewhere. If the audio isn't muting, then as long as you're outputting an audio codec, you're getting exactly what's on the disc. This data is packetized, just like the rest of the audio and video signal. As such, it is error-corrected. However, jitter is far more likely than with an optical or coax connection. In discussions with several audio equipment manufacturers since the original publication of this article, I've been told by all of them that the DAC in the receiver is going to have a far greater effect on the sound than the jitter in the transmission.
Before you leap on that, keep in mind that the DAC has a smaller effect on the sound than the amp, the speakers, and definitely less than the room itself. Oh, and in case that wasn't clear, the jitter is inherent in the HDMI transmission itself.
The cable isn't going to have any effect. Likely transmission The big "if" that I've been repeating is "if the signal gets there. Over longer runs, the answer is less clear-cut. The variables of the transmitter and receiver combo in the source and display, plus any repeaters you have in the mix like a receiver , mean that not every long HDMI cable can handle all the data. By long, I mean 50 feet or more.
If you need to run long HDMI cables, it's a safe bet you're going to run it through a wall. If so, it is vital you test the cable with all your equipment before you install it. Plus, as tempting as it is to get the cheapest cable that will work in this case, just because a cable works with all your current gear, doesn't necessarily mean it will work with your future gear. That's it.
Standard-speed cables are rated to carry up to i. Many standard-speed cables can probably handle p, they're just not rated for it. Check out my article on how 3D content works for more info on that.
Honestly, though, if you're buying the right kind of cables i. When cable manufacturers claim their cables are "Made for Hz" they are lying to you.
The conversion to or Hz is done inside the TV. There is no such thing as a Hz or Hz signal. This is the highest-bandwidth, non-computer source you can have, and even it is only 60 Hz check out i and p are the same resolution and What is refresh rate?
More expensive cables can be more rugged, with thicker casings, a beefy connector, and higher potential durability. If and how much more this is worth is up to you. Personally I find the bulky plugs of many "high-end" HDMI cables to be a nuisance, either falling out, or pulling on the connector in such a way that could potentially pose problems in the long run.
Better made cables may even last longer. Over these short distances, even the cheapest HDMI cables are going to work. And if they work, as you've read, it means you're getting perfect image and sound. Even over long runs, most cheap cables can do the job just fine. In the year and a half since we first published this article, the most common misunderstanding comes from those used to an analog cable mentality.
They understand that over any cable, there is a high likelihood of signal degradation. As in, the signal received by the television isn't as strong or exactly the same as what leaves the source.
However, unlike analog cables, there is no linear correlation between signal degradation and picture degradation. The picture will be perfect up to the point where there's not enough signal to create the image.
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