I don't worry about it. I've heard explanation that it's clay or something similar that's been added as an anticaking agent. It happens with IO, too. I've never worried much about it. One of Randy's posts mentioned the addition of vitamins that were at least in part to blame for the "crud" if I remember correctly. Although the cost of calcium and mag would be hard to calculate to bring the IO up to RC stats.
Great price ERC. That group buy from ERC is why I'm asking. I got RC last time. I'll try regular IO and see how it goes. Way back, I used to supplement IO regularly to elevate both Ca and alkalinity. Back then, it was fairly common knowledge that IO mixed up to much lower levels of alkalinity than it does today.
Today, it's a much better product for reefers just as it is. Supplementing IO to elevate ionic content obviously depends on having reliable numbers for your starting point. As history has shown, manufacturers may adjust their formulas over time to accomodate their user base. I just stumbled across this guy's salt tests posted in April according to Google. He's in Europe Poland , though, and that may change results if the formulation of the various salts tested are changed any from that sourced here.
Alk tests were performed by Hanna and MarinLab. Anyway, his test results shows the following for IO and RC for the big 3 that we're often concerned with:. If you look at the article, you might be surprised at the difference in the alkalinity of RC when tested by MarinLab: It was way lower than expected. Most all other results were in good agreement with the Hanna test. Because we hobbyists generally agree that RC has slightly better alk than IO, I went ahead and took the Hanna numbers as "truth" and listed them rather than to use the average of the two tests.
Assuming that we're mixing up 10 gallons of regular saltwater to 35 ppt, and using this guy's numbers, you'll need the following:. I, too, just read that post this morning. Right now I use Coralife, and I have to dose 2-part to keep up. The numbers are subject to change as manufacturers adapt their formulas to their market's demands. So it's good to try to find current numbers when searching the net.
But I was also cautious about using numbers coming from Poland because the factory that makes their IO apparently is located in France. I'm pretty sure that my IO doesn't come from France. Dosing is normally used to account for and match your tank's consumption, not to adapt your change-water to a desire baseline.
I guess that I don't call that dosing in the common sense of how we use it. Ran out of salt, going to the store tomorrow and am planning to buy bucket of salt or crystals. Reasons for me to switch to crystals or stick with salt? Instant ocean gives a calcium of about If it is not dropping then your coral are not consumiing to much. You would have no need for reef crystals which is just more calcium. My SPS grows fine though.
Perhaps skeletal growth is a lot like a zoa stretching. If they are getting lots of light, they may not have much need to spread out. My calcium levels never seem to drop. Mostly 2. As others said, it seems there is more residue with instant ocean.
This Leads into my next question. Which salt is best? NeoMarine and Instant Ocean seem to be the most expensive. I have read good things about Red Sea, I think they have different "blends" for different situations.
There have been questions regarding using a salt calculator to figure out how much salt you need to add. I recommend that you do not use a calculator for this. Always use the recommendations from the manufacturer to determine how much salt to use. Testing the salinity of your Instant Ocean salt can be done using a refractometer. You can also use a hydrometer but they are less accurate and reliable.
I recommend using this refractometer. It is affordable, easy to use, and accurate. There are a few differences between the Instant Ocean sea salt and Reef crystals. This includes the amount or quantity of elements in the salt. There are also price differences but the main one is the water parameter levels are different from both salts. If you have a fish-only saltwater tank and want to save some money, go with the sea salt mix.
If you have a reef tank, go with the Reef crystals. Instant Ocean salt is one of those items. But what is the difference between them? You need a mix that's meant for saltwater aquariums. I don't have a reef tank but I do know that Instant Ocean is fine if you dose properly. I assume this is the cheapest way to go and it also gives you the most control.
Its right on their site.. Enriched formulation. Optimum effectiveness. Formulated specially for use in reef aquariums, Reef Crystals contains essential ocean reef elements in concentrations greater than those found in natural sea water. Extra Calcium to help ensure the growth of large and small polyp stony corals as well as coralline algae Extra Trace Elements to provide an additional measure of vital nutrients Extra Vitamins to ensure vigorous growth and survival of corals, anemones and other invertebrates in a captive environment Metal Detoxifier - to neutralize traces of heavy metal often present in domestic water supplies.
What difference does ten bucks make? Current Tank Info: 14 Biocube mini reef, 75 reef. Thanks everyone. Fortunately I have been taking things nice and slow and enjoying the establishing process of building a nice tank and listening to other reefers and learning in the process instead of jumping all in.
It has now been 2 years and thinks seem to be going well. I like that Reef Crystals contain a lot of the excess nutrients needed for coral growth which limits the need to dose anything or at least a lot. Having said that I have yet to introduce any corals but am finally at the place where I am ready to. I seem to have a small cyano issue that I am hoping is the result of the excess nutrients in the Reef Crystals.
Just curious as I take the next step towards adding some LPS.
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